5 min readfrom travel

Just back from Uzbekistan and wanted to post some logistics, ideas, thoughts and opinions

I recently finished a trip through Uzbekistan (semi-guided via Global Connect). They handled the flights, hotels, and drivers. Overall, they were decent—the hotels were okay, but their recovery game was strong; when they missed a pickup, they sent someone to the station specifically to fast-track us onto our train.

If you’re planning a trip, here is the unfiltered reality of getting around and what to actually expect. Logistics and Tech

Navigation: Google Maps is useless. Do not rely on it even for walking. Download Yandex Maps and Yandex Go (the Uber of Uzbekistan). You might need to wait until you arrive to install or verify them.

Transport: Taxis are absurdly cheap (roughly £1.50 for a 15-minute ride). I suggest the "Comfort" option. I tried "Standard" once and the oldest functioning Chevrolet in the country showed up.

Money and Data: My Revolut card worked everywhere that accepted card which was quite a bit. For data, Eskimo eSIM worked well.

Flights:If flying Turkish Airlines, be prepared for an older Airbus A330. Space is tight, and you’ll likely feel more drained than usual upon arrival.

Trains: The Highs and Low

The Stations:They are packed because train travel is so popular but the trains are quite infrequent . For a few quid, you can access the VIP lounge—it is 100% worth it to escape the chaos.

Khiva to Bukhara: Everyone is waiting for the high-speed rail to finish but I think take the night train. It’s a really cool experience the biggest train I think I've ever seen.

High-Speed (Afrosiyob):This is popular but has very limited luggage space. If you can afford the upgrade to the VIP carriage, do it just for the extra room.

Arrive at least 30 minutes early you need to have your bags scanned before getting into the station and there is typically only 2 scanners.

Tashkent Metro:Beautiful and easy. Just tap your debit card; it’s about 11p to go any distance

City-by-City Breakdown

Tashkent

Forget the mosques here; save those for later in the trip. In Tashkent, I recommend the Train Museum, Chorsu Bazaar, Hotel Uzbekistan, Amir Timur Square, and the underground stations.

Food:This is the best and most varied food scene in the country. Really enjoyed afsona and TomYumBar

The Underground:The stations are works of art and you can spend a bit of time down here for 11p

Nukus and Moynaq

The Drive:The road from Nukus to Moynaq is rough. Our driver was swerving everywhere just to avoid potholes. Stock up on food and water in Nukus; there is very little on the road.

Moynaq:The museum is lackluster, but the Ship Graveyard is worth seeing.

Fueling: If your driver asks you to get out while they refuel, don’t panic it's normal. It relates to the type of fuel used and safety risks if a car isn't perfectly maintained.

See the art museum but research first. Amazing story but not well told by the museum itself.

Khiva

Old Town:Stunning but quite small. Get up early to have the place to yourself before the crowds arrive.

The Pass: The standard Khiva pass has quite a few exceptions. You’ll need cash if you want to climb the minarets, walls, or towers.

Ayaz Kala (The Forts): Make sure you have a guide, as there is very little information at the sites. Also, the yurt camp there is basic—no running water when we were there.

Bukhara and Samarkand

Bukhara:The old town is bigger than Khiva but still walkable. Note: The toilets at The Ark are "I think I'll just hold it" levels of bad.

Samarkand: This might be a shock if you’ve only seen Instagram. It’s a proper, gritty city. It has its own charm, but it isn't a polished museum.

The Registan:Accept now that you will never get a photo without people in it. Best to just enjoy the view.

The Coffee and Food Situation

Coffee: The scene isn't very developed yet. Look for Bon (a reliable chain) in most cities. For independent shops, I found Coffee and Donuts in Bukhara and Samarkind, a veggie restaurant, in Samarkand to be excellent.

The Food: I personally didn't love Plov—it’s very rich and heavy. The standout dishes for me were the dill noodles (Shivit Oshi) and the crispy aubergine salad. The fruit and veg are top-notch, especially the tomatoes.

Quick Tips

Safety: Rear seatbelts are often missing. Also, U-turns are a major part of city planning; you'll get used to them eventually.

Tipping:Since Yandex fares are so low, be generous with your tips. The margins for those drivers must be incredibly thin.

Airports: The domestic terminal is tiny. One coffee shop and a shop literally named "Small Shop." Don't plan to spend much time there.

Hamams: used the hamam at the Shahriston hotel**.** It's not actually old but looks it. Think long and hard before agreeing to firm. I did not expect to find a 6ft man standing on my back bending me like a pretzel. Cash only.

Market vendors: compared to Turkey, Morocco or Egypt stall holders and carpet shops are pretty chill but I don't think there are incredible bargains. Things do begin to look quite samey the only unique things I saw were in the silk workshop in Khiva, a russian flea market shop over from chor minor in buhkara, Happy bird gallery in Samarkand and Human house in Tashkent

alcohol: sarbast especially on draft is a dangerously drinkable beer.

tanbour 10 and Samarkand vsop smooth brandy

I tried some Samarkand house red and a sparkling wine both were ok.

if you stick to domestic stuff it's cheap but international alcohol attracts a tax and will significantly raise the bill. as of last week you must pay for alcohol by card so it might be billed separately

Uzbekistan is incredible and the people generally friendly. Tourists do still seem a bit more of a novelty in karalpakstan

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